2.\u00a0\u00a0Prepare the ground<\/strong><\/h3>\nAvoid planting onions in soil that’s been freshly manured or they will be too lush. I’ve planted mine in the patch that I’d manured for potatoes at the beginning of the year. Onions also prefer soil that has a fairly neutral pH of 6 to 7 so test it with a pH kit (easy to do, just follow instructions on the packet) and add lime as per instructions on the box if it’s very acidic. Avoid planting them where onions have grown in the last three to four years to prevent pests and diseases.<\/p>\n
Use a marker to measure distance.<\/p>\n
3. Position the Onions<\/h3>\n
I find it easier to place all the onions in position and then plant them.\u00a0 I usually follow the recommended planting depths and distances on the packet but if I don’t have a packet usually plant them about 7-8 in apart each way.\u00a0 The two packs I planted today recommended 5 in apart.<\/p>\n
I then use a marker snapped to the correct length and a rake handle (or bamboo cane)\u00a0laid across the bed as a marker.
\n(spot the health & safety hazard!)<\/p>\n
From experience I’ve found it easier to place all the bulbs before planting so that I can see where they all are! It also gives me a second chance at checking that they’re the right way up.\u00a0 The bottom of the bulb is usually flatter and the tip pointed.<\/p>\n
4.\u00a0 Plant the onion sets.<\/h3>\n
Onions are sown quite high in the soil, about an inch deep, as opposed to garlic which is planted deeper.<\/p>\n
If your soil is quite firm avoid pushing the bulb into it as you may damage it.\u00a0 Use a dibber or a stick to loosen the soil first.<\/p>\n
5. \u00a0Label.<\/h3>\n
Once you’ve planted all your\u00a0sets, label them with the variety and date and watch them grow.<\/p>\n
6. Aftercare<\/h3>\n
Keep an eye on the sets and re-plant them if birds dislodge them.<\/p>\n
Ensure the soil is kept watered if there’s a dry spell.<\/p>\n
Keep the soil weeded (which is much easier at this time of year as they’re not growing as quickly, if at all).<<\/p>\n
In the spring you can add a seaweed-based feed which is full of nutrients and minerals to give your plants a boost.<\/p>\n
7.\u00a0 Pests and Diseases<\/h3>\n
If you’re prone to onion fly (where small maggots attack the seedlings), you can grow them under fine netting. Unfortunately you wont know you’re prone until you’ve experienced them!<\/p>\n
There are no organic remedies for mildews and rots of onions (which will be worse in damp weather) that I’m aware of.<\/p>\n
All that’s left of our summer crop, oh no!<\/p>\n
8.\u00a0 Harvesting<\/h3>\n
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You can lift and use the onions as you need them once they’re a reasonable size.\u00a0 If you’re hoping to store them, wait until the foliage dies down and the tops bend naturally (see blog in September).<\/p>\n
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For more information about growing onions from seed, see the YouTube clip below:<\/p>\n