Category Archives: Watering

Gardening Under Cover – Where to begin with greenhouses & polytunnels

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Hot House from Polytunnels Ireland

Growing Undercover in a Hot House - picture courtesy Polytunnels Ireland

How many times have you read the words ‘gardening under cover’? Did you immediately know what it meant? I remember reading the sentence years ago and assumed it meant gardening in a beautiful old Victorian style greenhouse. It didn’t occur to me that gardening ‘under cover’ could also mean under a cloche, in a polytunnel, a lean-to plastic greenhouse, under an empty fizzy drink bottle, or even on a windowsill, though reading the words literally, I guess it seems obvious now.

This week a reader contacted me looking for advice on gardening undercover, or more specifically, how to grow vegetables in her brand spanking new polycarbonate greenhouse that was still in its box. Her contagious enthusiasm was delightful and one I could relate to. We’re at the time of year when we begin to feel that bubbling sense of anticipation as the new growing season approaches, Spring is almost upon us!

I was glad the reader got in touch before she’d opened the box. It’s at this stage that many people go wrong. She’d already done her homework and made her purchase. Now for the exciting part.

If you haven’t yet made your purchase, the following might help:

Research – Polytunnels versus Greenhouses

Greenhouses

Glass or greenhouses are generally more aesthetically pleasing, will last longer, let in more light and hold their heat longer but they can cost considerably more than polytunnels. If you have your heart set on a greenhouse but finances are an issue, keep an eye on the small ads as they do pop up for sale from time to time or if you’re handy, make your own.

A Greenhouse made from Recycled Windows

Polytunnels

Polytunnels make gardening undercover affordable for many. You can get a much larger growing area for your money but you will have to replace the polythene every five to ten years, depending upon the gauge you buy and your location (some will be more exposed to weather conditions that others). The metal frame will make up the majority of your outlay but once you have that in place it will last you for years.

Geodome available from www.polytunnelsireland.ie

Like greenhouses, geodomes and hot houses look good and their shapes offer quirkiness to your garden. They are also able to withstand all-weather conditions so if you live in a particularly windy area, they might be an excellent choice. Again they’re quite pricey but can be used as sunrooms, kids play areas, somewhere warm to site your giant paddling pool, or of course, somewhere very nice to grow your veggies.

The Greenhouse People have an excellent buyers guide which, apart from extolling the virtues of their own products, also list many of the factors you may wish to take into account before you make a purchase of your own. These include tips on where to site it, whether to choose glass or polycarbonate,  ventilation and size, with much of the advice applying to polytunnels too.

If you can’t afford to buy new, I wrote a post in April last year looking at the cheaper versus expensive debate where there were lots of ideas for making your own structure. You can also take a look at the Greensideupveg Pinterest board dedicated to Greenhouses and Polytunnels where there are some fabulous recycled and new creations.

You’ve researched, picked up or had delivered your new greenhouse or polytunnel, what next?

Read the Instructions

How many times are we told to read the instructions before we start to use something but skip bits because we’re in a hurry? Carefully open the packaging, find the instructions then check all the pieces are there and that they are the correct ones.

There’s nothing worse than finding your missing pieces or incorrect ones have been accidentally packed when you’re half way through your build. I couldn’t understand why a local polycarbonate greenhouse was in pieces within a year of being put up until I discovered that most of the window clips hadn’t been used so all the windows fell out at the first gust of wind.

Don’t start erecting it if you’re in a bad mood or if the weather’s not favourable!

Really, don’t. I speak from experience and I’m generally a good-natured soul. I’ve yet to put up a greenhouse though have had a hand in several polytunnels. Putting anything together that you’re not used to can be stressful and put a considerable strain on a relationship! Add unfavourable weather conditions to the mix and blood pressure levels may rise. You’ll also risk setting sail the most expensive kite you’ll ever fly if you’re trying to put a polytunnel up in anything but the calmest of conditions.

PolytunnelClipping windows in place and erecting frames will all be much harder if it’s windy, or even too hot (tempers may fray in the heat). However much you want to start growing, it’s worth waiting that extra day or so, or consider paying experts to do it.

If you’ve bought a mini greenhouse which isn’t concreted down, fix it firmly to the floor, a wall, anything. Almost everyone I have spoken to (including me) has had one of these turn itself upside down or crash over complete with its entire contents.

Ground preparation

Whether you’re erecting a small greenhouse on a concrete base or a large polytunnel onto soil, it’s much easier to prepare the ground before you place the structure on top (and essential in the case of the concrete base). If you don’t you’ll risk breaking or putting holes in your structure before you even begin. If you’re planning to grow vegetables directly into the soil as opposed to containers, but aren’t sure when you’ll get around to erecting the structure, cover the soil with cardboard. The weeds will die and the soil will begin to break down without you having to lift a fork.

Place a layer of cardboard on the ground, spread a layer of organic matter (straw/manure/compost) over the top then add another layer of cardboard. This is known as lasagna gardening.

What can I grow undercover?

Anything! After the long wet summer I’ve been day dreaming about growing all my vegetables undercover! For most of us however, that’s not an option so when considering what  to plant it’s worth baring a few things in mind.

  • Do you want to harvest all year? If the answer is yes then ensure you leave space for your autumn/winter veg. It’s easy to get carried away and fill your soil, containers or shelves with hot climate fruit and veg only to find you’ve no space left for carrots, Christmas potatoes or spinach.
  • Space. Bare in mind how much room the plant takes when it’s growing versus how much space you have. For instance a winter squash could take over a tiny greenhouse and only provide you with a couple of fruit. You might be better to grow it in a large container outside on a warm patio and save your greenhouse space for vine tomatoes, hot chilli peppers, mediterranean herbs such as basil and a single courgette plant.
  • Shelving is important if you plan to raise plants from seeds as a few trays can quickly fill up a small greenhouse if you don’t have any.

Shelving in a lovely home made greenhouse from A Thin Man's Blog (go see how he made it)

Ventilation & Watering

I couldn’t write a post on growing undercover without mentioning ventilationn. It’s vital. Without an adequate air flow you’ll risk Botrytis (grey mould) and powdering mildews as well as develop a build up of pests that love warm dry environments such as red spider mite that will thrive. Access to water also has to be taken into consideration. I wrote a post a couple of years ago on watering plants and seedlings which might be helpful.

Go on a course/keep a diary

Lastly, buy a couple of good books about growing undercover and/or attend a workshop. I’ve held morning workshops about growing in a polytunnel and many other training centres offer them throughout the year.

If you have a polytunnel Joyce Russell wrote an excellent must have book called The Polytunnel Book – Fruit and Vegetables All Year Round and Klaus Laitenberger published Vegetables for the Polytunnel and Greenhouse a couple of years ago.

Water, water everywhere?

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Or so we’d like to think, particularly after the recent floods, but during early October and for the first time since we’ve lived on the top of the hill, our well ran dry and we suffered a water shortage. It was a bit of  a shock as we’ve had such a wet summer (again) but the taps stopped flowing and our appliances flashed ‘no water’ alerts, despite being A rated.


We have a deep well, almost 300ft and have never experienced a water shortage. Chatting to the shopkeeper in the local village however, we weren’t alone this year – several residents at the bottom of the hill had suffered a shortage too. In a way it’s not surprising with the demands of modern day life putting pressures on our supplies. Most households in Ireland now have dishwashers, washing machines, showers and baths, all demanding an instant water supply.


So what can gardeners do to help to preserve this precious resource?


Here are my top ten tips:


1.  Make sure there are no leaky taps, hoses or pipes in your property – fixing a leak can save up to 300 gallons a month.


2.  Spread organic mulch around plants as this helps to retain moisture.


3.  Valve off outside taps during frosty winter months but leave tap open (to prevent pipes bursting).


4.  Wash fruit and vegetables in a bowl rather than under a running tap and use the water from the bowl to water plants.

(hidden at the back of house!)



5.  Collect water from your roof gutters to water the garden. There are many types of attractive water containers for this purpose or you can recycle – we installed a system this year using a discarded builders container and our old well pipe.


6.  Install a timed irrigation system for watering plants/polytunnels/containers.


7.  Place a sink under an outside tap for rinsing pots, vegetables etc.



8.  When cutting your lawn, adjust your mower to a higher setting – a longer lawn shades the roots and prevents it drying out as quickly.


9.  Water plants only when necessary. More plants die from over watering than under watering.


10. Finally when you’re washing your hands after a hard   day’s gardening, put the plug in the sink rather than letting the tap run.


If householders are doing their bit, what are the scientists doing about the water crisis? I enjoyed watching this recent news clip telling us how solar panels are being used to convert sea water.

What do you do? Do you have any more tips for saving water in the garden?

Watering Vegetable Plants & Seedlings

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You may have noticed how all the plants started growing again recently after a few days of rain. Most vegetables benefit from a good soaking of the soil as water is taken up by the roots and then evaporated through the leaves. However, too much water can result in nutrients being washed out of their reach and encourages shallow, surface rooting. If you’re wondering if you’re watering your vegetables correctly, these tips might help.

Waterlogged Vegetable GardenWaterlogging can result in plants dying as their oxygen source will be cut off. Generally, however, more water is lost through evaporation than through bad drainage.

  • As a guide water thoroughly and gently. Don’t be tempted to put the hose on full blast on each plant for a few seconds or you risk damaging seedlings and young plants. You’ll also notice if you check the soil (stick your finger in it) that the surface area might be wet but the area you’re trying to reach (where the roots are) is still dry so aim to keep the top 20 cm of soil moist.

watering tomatoes

  • Soaking the soil with about 10 – 15 litres per square metre per week will really benefit Brassica crops in a drought. Water directly to the base of the plant – an upturned cut off plastic drinks bottle propped in the soil next to an established plant (especially squashes and tomatoes) is great for sending water directly where it’s needed.
  • Watering in the evening is also the preferred method, as the plants will absorb the water rather than losing it to evaporation, however this may attract slugs. In the morning the soil will be soft making for easier weeding. Make sure that the leaves are dry before nightfall however.
  • Germinating seeds need water so always sow into moist soil or compost.
  • One of the biggest killers of seedlings is watering incorrectly. They prefer to be watered from the base so stand them in trays and water the trays if possible. Alternatively use a watering can with a very fine ‘rose’ to prevent swamping the compost or try using a mister. Once compost has dried out it’s very difficult to wet it through again.
  • Fruit and flowering plants such as tomatoes, beans and cucumbers need water to encourage their fruits to swell so heavy watering at this stage will increase yields.
  • Root crops need a steady supply of water – too much will result in more foliage rather than big roots so only water if the soil starts to dry out, increasing the frequency as the roots start to swell.
  • Crops that are grown for their leaves – spinach, lettuce, cabbages, etc., need more water than root crops.
  • Plants are more prone to fungal diseases if their leaves are watered rather than their roots.
  • Dig in as much bulky organic matter (compost or well-rotted manure) to increase the water-holding capacity of the soil.
  • Mulch the soil surface after watering to prevent evaporation (add a layer of straw, compost or leaf mould on top of the soil and spread it around the plants).
  • Avoid cultivating soil in dry weather, as it will bring moisture to the surface, which can then evaporate.
  • Keep the soil as weed free as possible as the weeds will compete with the plants for water.
  • Put up wind breaks. Wind dries the soil quickly, again increasing the rate of evaporation.

wind break fabric